I love machine embroidery. I’ve been stitching on my sewing machine for many years, so when I was introduced to embroidery using a dedicated embroidery machine in about 2004, I was hooked!
How to Embroider a Hanky
Custom hankies, done for weddings and other occasions, such as a baby’s Baptism, are treasured keepsakes, easy to do, and don’t take up much room!
I have been asked so many times exactly how I accomplish embroidering a hanky, so here I am, again, hoping to clear up any confusion that fellow embroiderers may have.
Don’t embroider? You can either skip this post, or read along, gathering some life knowledge! (And it’s always fun to look at pictures!)
Here is the step-by-step process, shown in photos. I tried to show each detail step, so that even the most beginner embroiderer could “get it.” Here goes…
Starch Hanky Twice~
WSS Two Layers
Spray Temp Adhesive
Print Paper Template
Hanky into Hoop
Rotate Design
ROLL Template Away from Hanky
Stitch Design on Hanky
Trim WSS from Hanky
Ditto for Other Corners
Soak in Water and Air Dry
Use tape to help pick up all of the tiny thread clippings from back of hanky.
Iron Hanky from Back
Emb Imprint in Felt
Well, I think that’s more than enough to digest for one post, don’t you?! In my next how-to post I will show you, step-by-step, how to fold your hanky to fit into an organza gift bag, just perfectly! It’s such a nice touch and presentation of the hanky. I add a small card to tuck into the back, too!
I do hope you enjoyed this tutorial. I did write one about hankies long ago, but with all of the questions I get about tips and tricks of the embroidered hankies, I thought it was about time to put another one together.
I will also be writing about small lettering tips and tricks when embroidering on fine or delicate fabric. It’s certainly not a “hit the machine button and go” sort of project! Many love to put poems on hankies. That’s when small lettering tips come in handy.
Stay Tuned for the Part 2 Post, “How to Fold Hankies.”
What do you think about wedding hankies? I like to think of them as very special little detailed treasures to keep as a remembrance of the special day. They are also practical enough to catch those tears of joy!
Did you ever guess so much goes into this delicate creation? Is it too much info? I’m interested to know how the non-embroiderers feel about seeing such a long and detailed post. Just a wonderin’.
Girl, you absolutely the BEST. Thank you so much for this great tutorial. I do have a couple of questions. First, do you preshrink the hankie, and second, when you iron on the back side, do you use felt as the pressing surface?
Thanks Again,
Pat
Thanks, Pat! I do not preshrink my hankies. So far they have not needed it. Yes. I do put a nice thick piece of beige or white wool felt down onto my ironing board and place the hanky facedown onto the felt. I steam press the hanky to get the wrinkles out that formed when I soaked and air-dried the hanky. You can press the whole hanky except for the area where the stitching is, from the front, too, of course! I do!
Hi Kim! Thanks for putting this together so beautifully! But everything you do is beautiful….
Thank you for the kind words, Melissa!
Very well written. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome job”. Thank you for sharing this.
Thank you! I love doing hankies, and it’s so nice to have all these tips – from an expert! – in one place.
I have seen sachet bags made with these hankies. I want some.
Thank you for this Wonderful tutorial. I Can’t wait to try it. I have a niece getting married an I’m definitely going to do a hankies for her. My question is this.. What initial do you use? Her first name initial? ? Maiden initial? Married initial? I also want to add the dare.
Glad you like the tutorial, Carolyn! I usually use the first initial of the last name of each person. For the bride I use her NEW last name initial. It is always best to ask the client their preference, of course. I recently did some hankies for girls who all wanted the first name initial. They were mostly single.
Thank you. Great tutorial!
What size needle do you use for the handkerchiefs?
I use size 11. I am going to try a finer size 9 next time I do small lettering.
I just did a wedding poem on a hanky. I used size 11 needle with 2 pieces of tearaway wws I did soak it in water when finished, how do you get the wws completely off of the hanky? Just soaking didn’t seem to work. I use the monogram wizard plus software. Lettering was small the italic script the size was I think .35 I did spray and sprayed agained with starch and used the clear wws on top and even tried on back too. It looked ok but just had trouble getting the stablizier off the back any advice would be appreciated.
Rhanda, thanks for looking at my wedding hanky tutorial. I always suggest using two layer of the WSS on the back of the hanky, to stabilize. By its nature, the white paper towel looking WSS is NOT tearaway. It is cutaway. You trim the excess and then soak the hanky to allow the rest of the WSS to melt away in the water. You said “tearaway.” I am wondering if you perhaps grabbed the wrong stabilizer by mistake? If it is truly a WSS, it should dissolve in the water completely.
Also, when using the letters smaller than .50, did you reduce the density to about 95 and increase the Bold to about 105 or so? No underlay. Just curious. That’s what I suggest for all small lettering not already digitized for the smaller letters. HTH!
Kim, please explain what you mean by “no underlay.”
Terrie, I usually turn on or click on “underlay” when stitching a monogram or letters onto something with a nap, or pile. Think of thick towels or velvet. I mentioned no need of extra “underlayment” stitches, which add extra support under letters or a design, since we are stitching onto a very fine hanky fabric. It would make the design (letters) too dense and heavy for such a fine fabric. Does that make sense? Of course, this is when I have an option whether to add underlay or not, such as in Monogram Wizard sort of software. If you buy an already digitized design, you would not have that option. Then it is best to use the smallest lettering that the digitizer offers for your particular project. Chances are that the digitizer did not add underlay on smaller letters. Run your stitch simulator in your embroidery editing software to be able to see “virtually” if there are extra criss cross or wide zig zag stitches UNDER the top sating stitches. Does this help?
QuirkyKim
Thank you, Kim. Your explanation was very helpful.
Thank you so much for this. INTERESTING THOUGHT: I also smock and monogram initials on the dress front and have a problem with the ironing …presently, i use a “terry cloth towel” as my buffer for my initials…I LOVE YOUR WOOL felt. Do you think that would help my puckering issue? I use imperial broadcloth and batiste fabric.
Joyce, I feel the wool felt helps with the puckers, but even more importantly, starch and starch and starch again, beFORE embroidery is the best tip I have been given, by http://www.soniashowalterdesigns.com. Also, I tend not to hoop my fine fabric, such as the hankies that I do. Rather, I either hoop the two layers of WSS, then lightly spray the stabilizer and then pat the hanky onto the sprayed stabilizer. Remember that the hanky has first been STARCHED to be very stiff. THAT is the process I tend to use. Much success with your dresses. They must be lovely!
I am delighted to find these instructions; they are the best ones I’ve come across! I started embroidering baptismal hankies for my church and it has been trial and error. Your tips have really helped me!
Thanks for your kind words, Beth! They made my day! Did I say “Remember to starch!” (Heh heh.)
Hi i was trying to embroider a handkerchief tonight with no success i did the starch n i tried with regular stabilizer then with water soluble n neither worked. The front looks ok but the back is a complete mess. I used a 70 n 60 needle to c if that was the problem but not that either. Im doing these handkerchief for a wedding n the lettering are small. Please i need some sort of direction or what im i doing wrong. Thank u in advance
It would help to know what size your lettering is and how you created it. A photo would help, too. Send the info to my email address at quirkykim@comcast.net. I will tey to help if I know more. Which software did you use? Also, use two layers Of wss. Never a tearaway. Which machine do you use? Which font or alpha?
Ok just send u a email with attached pictures.
Lizette, I resent the reply I had written from my email to you. I sent the first one at 12:40 pm today. Check your email messages.
Where is the best place to buy tiny fonts that stitch out well
There are several. Try Googling “Best small fonts for machine embroidery.” That’s what I did and several good sites came up. For instance:
http://www.rivermillembroidery.com/Mini-Script-Machine-Embroidery-Font-Alphabet–14-38-and-12_p_335.html
So i went to Joanna purchase 60wt thread n the water soluble that looks like hand towel. I have Ruby Husqvarna Viking embroidery Machine. I have embroider n applique before it just i never embroider small letters nor this type of material.
Did you get my email about your machine having issues?
No
i love your tutorial and TIPS! I’ve done several hankies and just never thought to iron on the wool felt!! On my shopping list for lots of things! ;-). Question…WHERE do you find your hankies?? That’s the biggest challenge for me!!
Anne, thanks for the kind words. I get most of my hankies from http://www.AllAboutBlanks.com or http://www.embroiderthis.com
.
Hope this helps!
Thanks!! Turns out I got my answer when I looked at Part 2! ;-). I’ve had an account with them forever. I’d just never tried their hankies…nor looked!!
Happy Summer!
Anne
Thank you for such a great tutorial on delicate fabrics like hankies. Someone at Applique Forum suggested your tutorial and I have certainly saved it to my favorites.
I do believe I missed your kind words of many weeks ago, and I do apologize! Thank you! I am glad my tuts helped you! My best to you, Chellecopley!
What brand of WSS do you find works best? And is it medium weight?
Brittany, I use the VILENE white type WSS. I get it from several sources. I have even purchased by the bolt at Walmart! Other great sources are http://www.terradonembroidery.com. They don’t call it Vilene but it is similar. I use two layers of it for most of the embroidery that I do. Thanks for the question! I hope my post was helpful to you.
Very nice of you to share this information. Your work looks fantastic. Wondering what type of hankies you us, cotton, linen, or other? Have you ever done the poems? Mydaughter is getting married Very soon and there would be quite a few to make. Where do you get your hankies from and if you don’t mind, about how much do they run. Sorry the last questions are probably top secret, so if you don’t answer, I understand. Thanks!!
I usually use cotton or sometimes linen. I get some of my hankies at http://www.allaboutblanks.com. I also order from http://www.embroiderthis.com. Both are great sources for hankies! If you have a tax ID both sites do have wholesale sites, too. You will be able to see the prices when going to both sites! Thank you for your kind words and I hope the post was helpful to you! Enjoy your daughter’s wedding! I’ve been there!
Are you familiar with Floriani Total Control U software? I am using it and struggling with the fonts when trying to find something that looks nice on a corner of a Handkerchief.
I am sorry that I am not familiar with how to use Floriani Total Control Software, Mikal. There are many wonderful, already digitized alphas out in the embroidery world that might suit your needs. Keep in mind that they if they are already digitized to stitch out on your embroidery machine, that you should purchase the size you really need, since the alphas are truly designs, digitized to be stitched out in a very specific size to assure the best quality. I love http://www.soniashowalterdesigns.com for some of her wonderfully elegant alpha designs. Another site that has stunning alphas is http://www.annabove.com. I believe that is the link. Let me know how it goes!
Very Nice work! I have a few questions … I have a project runway sewing machine and embroidery machine in one. I was wondering how you create your design ? Do you use computer software and if so which one or do you print on regular paper from word? If so what size font do you use and what size for the embroidery? I am looking to one letter and the date as you did and also a poem. Thanks for your help.
Thanks, Jen. Yes, I do use a couple of different embroidery software programs. I also purchase quality, pre-digitized alphas to use. Make sure you find the size alpha you want, since they are pre-digitized, and are actually designs, just like a rose or a kitty embroidery design would be.
When I use a single letter in one corner of a hanky, I usually use a design that is no more than 3″ x 3″. I do print a paper template through my Embird Embroidery editing software. I cut it on my paper cutter to the size of the grid marks that I make sure to print with the design. It helps me line up the design in the corner of the hanky.
For the opposite corner where I put the date, I will just play with embroidery design letters that can be stitched out in a small size. I like to make sure the date length is no longer than about 4.20″. That is very long, and any longer won’t nestle well within that corner. There are many sites that sell quality letters that are pre-digitized. The style is personal preference. Please see the additional comment for this post where I mention a couple of favorite sites of mine for quality, elegant alphas. Best of luck!
Your knowledge and picture tutorial are very helpful! thanks
Thank you, Candy! I am sorry that I just now saw your kind words!
Thank you so much for this amazing tutorial! I did a trial run last night for some that I am doing for a friend’s wedding. I ran into 1 issue though. The back of the embroidery is a mess! (I have only embroidered a few times-so I am still learning) On the other stuff I have done it was covered by another piece of fabric so it wasn’t seen. How can I fix this so it is not such an eyesore… or is there some sort of fusible clear fabric that I can place on the underside to cover the threads. Thank you!
I’m so glad you found the tutorial helpful, Christina!
Did you use one-two layers of the fabric-looking type of Water Soluble Stabilizer, as I had mentioned? The back of the embroidery should not be a “mess.” If you want to send me some photos of it at my email address, I could take a look. QuirkyKim@comcast.net.
Did you do a poem or something with a bunch of tiny letters? If so, how did you create it? Which software? There are ways of creating it that will allow the letters to not be trimmed, except for each word, instead of being trimmed for each letter. That can make a mess.
Also, did you starch the hanky very heavily so it is very stiff? I just want your end result to be the best it can be. Let me know! Send photos to me. I really can help more if I see what the issue is. What sort of machine do you have? What sort of thread? What size are the letters? All of it matters.
My Creative Best,
Kim Banta
Thanks for the tutorial. A customer asked me to embroidery a short saying, name, and date on an antique or at least very old handkerchief for her daughter’s wedding. I’m going to try to locate some 100% cotton batiste to do a practice run on. I’m wondering if I need to use 60wt thread or if 40wt will work. I had not thought about using my clamp to do this, but was intending to hoop some wash away stabilizer and spraying with KK100. I think I like the clamp idea better.
Absolutely beautiful work, and so perfect! May I ask what font you used for these? It is incredibly lovely. Wish I had seen this a year ago when I had several hankies to embroider for a 50th wedding anniversary. The hankies were for each of the grandchildren, with intents for them to be used in their own weddings some day. I was honored to be a part of the celebration!
Kathy, I wish I could recall the font used. It was long ago, but I was sure I could look it up. I can’t find it! It is similar to my “Goldleaf” alpha in my Monogram Wizard Plus (monogram software.) Annaboveembroidery.com also has lovely fonts that I have collected over the years. Many have this same feel. Thank you for commenting!
I absolutely love this tutorial! I was also hoping to get your help with something, I need to embroider a hankie for my neice wedding, a poem and the date. so my question is what size font? I have a 6 needle machine so what size needle should I use?
the poem is about 5 lines.
Thank You so very much!
Lynn
Which embroidery software do you use? Do you have pre-digitized alphas? Usually, a poem at about 5 lines would be about a .25″ letter size. That means, if you don’t have one purchased at that size, and say, use a program like Monogram Wizard Plus, or another program where you create your lettering, you must make sure your letters at that size are LESS dense than a letter at .50 or bigger. There needs to be room for the 3-D thread in a very small space. You do not use underlay on small lettering. I might suggest, if you don’t want to change a bunch of settings, to purchase a small font that is created already. You can find some nice ones at Oma’s Embroidery Designs, or Apex Embroidery Designs. Search for a well-digitized letter of about .25″. They will have changed the parameters to stitch out at that very small size. Also, remember to starch that hanky to board stiffness to minimize puckers.
Hi there
What a wonderful site you have with most helpful hint. I work from home and had much success on my own, but there are times that I do need extra help 🙂 I have to make wedding hankies and the hint of the starch is awesome. However,,,, I noticed a bottle can in your picture. Is this something one can buy in the supermarket shops? and is there a difference between the powder and the spray?
Thank you kindly and have a wonderful weekend.
Rika
Great tutorial! I’m going to be doing my first hankie for a First Communion. Three letter first name and a small cross (which she wants in metallic thread.) I made the name 1″ and the cross 1/2″. Now I’m wondering if that is to small. I did print it out but I cannot decide if it’s big enough. What size do you usually use?
Sorry that I’ just now seeing this! I know you have finished your project. HOpefully, you had a great result! I use all sizes, from about 1″ to 3″ in my lettering and designs, on a hanky. I have not tackled metallic thread on a hanky.
Wonderful tutorial and that you take the time to really read and answer questions.
I am doing a poem on a hankie for my granddaughters wedding and this info is just what I need after ruining several. I don’t know how to take out underlay or reduce density so I will take your advice and buy some small fonts to audition before another failure.
Beverly
Thanks for your kind words, Beverly! I am late in replying, but I do hope your hankies turned out well!
Isn’t it amazing that this post is still getting comments! That’s a testament to the wonderful work you do.
I’m very new to machine embroidery and am loving every minute of it. So much to learn!
I’m confused about spraying adhesive on the WSS, won’t that make it melt away?
Thanks for all you do.
Cas
Hi, Cas,
Yes, it is amazing that readers still comment on this post about hankies! I am glad, because it means that folks are using these posts as reference when they want to make a hanky beautiful!
When I spray my WSS, it is just a very, very light spray. It doesn’t melt the WSS at all. If you are not comfortable with that, then you can always baste or pin just outside your stitching area. I find it is nice, though, for the spray to hold the fibers of the hanky in place, exactly where I am stitching. Make sense?
Thanks! I’ll spray on a small piece of WSS and see what happens.
Great! Spray lightly!
I am making an heirloom christening dress for my granddaughter and was wondering if I can use this technique to make a embroidered insertion in the yolk of the dress. I tried tearaway but it doesn’t work very well. Can’t remove all the tearaway and it doesn’t lay nice. I am using Imperial bastiste for the dress.
Thanks, Nancy
Hi, Nancy, thanks for reading my post. Yes, I would use two layers of WSS. Starch and starch again. Test on extra fabric first. Best of luck to you! Are you using very small lettering? If so, what is your source? Small lettering needs lighter density and no underlay, especially on lightweight fabrics.
Great information!! After we soak the hankie and let air dry, when we iron it is puckering. Any suggestions?
How small are your letters? Make sure you do not have underlay under your stitches. Do not hoop too tightly. Iron all around the embroidery design from the back. Iron the embroidery from the back, top top of a thick piece of wool felt, if possible.
Hi! Great tutorial…thank you! I’ve recently discovered a product (I understand it’s been around for years) that does an awesome job stiffening fabric. It’s call Terial Magic. Ever hear of it? If so, any opinions or suggestions? When embroidering a digitized smaller font, do you lower the upper tension to help avoid puckering or would this make it worse?
Thanks for contacting me, Nancy! Yes, since writing the hanky tut I have discovered Terial Magic. It is a great product. You do have to spray until soaked or it will dry with some spotting sometimes. I dry and then iron. Try to dry so the item is not out of square, like with a hanky. It does help with puckering. Also, when you say, “digitized small lettering,” do you mean it is already digitized for SMALL lettering? It does have some special needs when digitizing small lettering, such as a relaxed pull compensation, (a tad more bold in the sating stitch) and NO underlay, so it won’t have too many stitches in a small area. Also, Density has to be lighter, again, so there are not too many stitches in a small area. I would NOT touch your machine tension, unless it is too tight, in general. Hope this helps.
Kim Banta
Thanks for such a great tutorial! Have had this project on my To-Do List for years and now my oldest granddaughter is getting married so I had to find a good tutorial to show me the way. Yours is terrific. Thank you!
And thank you for the nice comment, Terrie!
QuirkyKim
Having read this I believed it was rather enlightening.
I appreciate you finding the time and energy to put this short article together.
I once again find myself personally spending way too much time both reading and commenting.
But so what, it was still worthwhile!